The Paint Around A Pin

Rogan Art on Fabric (©️www.megastores.com)

 Art has always been an integral part of human life and society. With the advancement of time, with the cultural exchanges and migration, it develops, and sometimes appear in a new way. Gujrat has always been a centre for art in India, with various printing techniques, designs and shades of colors. Very little of us do know about the Rogan art, in which the dresses look like a painted canvas. 

Rogan art came to India from Persia, about 400 years ago. The word 'Rogan' actually stands for varnish or oil. It is a term adopted during Mughals. Traditionally, this art was pursued to beautify bridal clothings and bed coverings of the local tribes. Therefore, it became a seasonal art with its high demand during the marriage season. 

 
With the passage of time and the advancement of new cheap printing techniques and machine made clothes, this art form lost popularity and now it is practiced by only ONE family in the Kutch district of Gujrat .

In Rogan printing process, a paint made from thick castor oil and natural bright colored dyes are used. The castor oil is heated in water constantly for long hours. Then powered natural dyes are mixed and the dye is ready to use. Now a metal stick (stylus or kalam) is used to make threads. The artisans take the dye in their palms, make threads out of it and place it warily on the cloth. Then they fold the fabric thereby printing its mirror image. Fine details are added later. Designs mostly include animals, plants, flowers etc. 

 

The Rogan Paint (©️www.himalayanhemp.com)

In 20th and 21st century, things changed to get better. After the 2001 earthquake, when the whole Kutch region was rebuilt, constant supply of power, newly built roads and obviously the scenic beauty attracted a lot of tourists. Rogan art started to gain popularity again. Local cooperatives and NGOs helped to attract the market for it. In 2014, when the PM Narendra Modi gifted president Obama a Rogan paint of 'Tree of life', flower of Rogan art finally bloomed after decades, a ray of hope brightened the village.

The thread being made from thick castor oil mixed with dye (©️ Business Insider)

Abdul Gafur Khatri and his family are the only few people to practice Rogan art now. In 1980 he left his village, moved to Ahmedabad and then to Mumbai. After 2 years when he returned, he learnt it from his father and grandfather and from then till now, he is practicing it. He and his nephews have trained many women in past few years in Rogan art. Four of his family members have been awarded till date with national or state award. He received State award in 1988 and National Award in 1997. He received prestigious Padma Shri, fourth highest civilian award in 2019. 

Abdul Khatri with his work (www.gaonconnection.com)

With new technologies emerging everyday, it is hard to keep pace with them. Many tribal and traditional art forms have already made extinction. Rogan art is survived by only six members of a family, it needs protection to live longer.

   

----By Wayfarer 

Sources: 

https://gaatha.com/rogan-art-kutch-gujarat/#:~:text=Rogan%20Art%2C%20an%20ancient%20skill,bead%20spreads%20were%20painstakingly%20painted.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rogan_painting

http://www.roganartnirona.com/story.html

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abdul_Gafur_Khatri

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